Thanks Jason.
Yes, I have a manual transfer switch and Generator socket all professionally installed.
Yes, I read the V2L article yesterday. Great article.
Yes, I have grid tied solar and turn it off for the generator and would do the same for V2L.
Cheers Darren
So if the car disconnects the v2l when I plugged a lead from the v2l adaptorās multibox (NZ 2 way) to the gen inlet (OK with a generator using same lead) even when all load is switched off, any suggestions? Do I need a v2l adaptor like yours without multibox perhaps?
Or is there likely something in the car v2l setup that prevents connecting to a house, even if it is isolated from the grid and all load turned off? Thoughts?
I expect this will be a question other EV users will ponder in the future too.
I could in the future upgrade my grid connected solar system to a hybrid inverter and install a few batteries to mirror your set up which might work better, but conceptually I was hoping the EV connecting to the house would be a good stepping stone in the direction of a full hybrid solar system. It seems kind of a shame not to be able to use the 40kWh of the 60kWh I have on wheels when instead of spending $20k NZD on a tesla power wall (as quoted, and excluding inverter upgrade and anything else required).
Cheers
Darren
I donāt know the specifics, but Iāve seen at least one person claiming success on Facebook. It took a bit figuring out ā I think it had something to do with the way it had to be isolated.
OK, chatting with a friend he came back to Jasonās point above about the 2 pole manual transfer switch needing to be wired to isolate both active and neutral grid supply based on how the car responded in my various attempts.
In going back to research exactly what KrausNaimer Switch I have, Iāve noticed all through their catalogue they say not to switch the neutral, as per AS NZS 3010:2005. They say it everywhere. So Iām picking that is what I need to discuss with the electrician tomorrow that installed it and find out if and how to legally get both a switched active and neutral.
Thanks for sharing your results Svarky. A bit late in the game for me to reply but only now had a chance to connect the NZ BYD V2L to our off-grid Outback system using a 20A lockable connector (and 16A circuit breaker). The Outback system consist of the, now superseded, 4x VFX3048E plus other equipment to harvest ~14kW on solar. We have a standby generator of 15kVA.
The system has a double pole power input selection switch to select generator or āgridā (or none). The gen side is used for the generator so use the grid position to connect the V2L. Because each inverter is capable of diverting much more than the V2L can supply, only the Master inverter can be active (set at a lower input of 12A at this stage), the three slaves will be isolated using their DC breakers and AC āpower-inā circuit breakers. This to prevent overloading the V2L. I had to disconnect the earth coming from the V2L since the earth and neutral are connected in the house system.
The system works as if the V2L is a generator and, when the V2L is connected and activated, the inverter tests the incoming power signal and diverts when happy. The V2L takes over the active loads in the house and what is left over uses for charging the house batteries. While we can only extract a limited kW from the car it has a massive kWh capacity if the batteries are full. It will allow us to run the house at night when no other loads are active other than the fridge/freezer, lights and perhaps the tv. The inverter will automatically throttle back the house battery charging when more load comes on (boiling a kettle) to prevent overloading. On heavily overcast days when house batteries are getting towards the 90% (evening) we can connect the car and be back at 100% in the morning. The car may have dropped by 10%-15%.
Much less running of the generator and preserving the house batteries for a longer life. Perhaps even charging the old Leaf from the BYD too if required using an 8A granny charger.
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I use a Latronics ACTS40 with double pole switching, works flawlessly, no manual switching required, it auto senses primary or secondary power sources plugged in.
Though on occasion it does not like the V2L output and takes a couple of attempts to switch over, dirty output or its sensitive to certain home devices - not sure.
Love that switch, thanks for bringing it my attention. I couldnāt find a 64A version though (15kVa generator). Will keep looking unless you are in the know?
Hi,
I am purchasing a BYD Atto 3. My house is connected to standard 240V single phase mains power in Adelaide.
I noted in the comments above that there is some discussion of success with the Latronics ACTS40 transfer switch using the carās VTL to feed like a backup generator into the switch box.
Iām not an electrician and am quite ignorant re wiring, etc., but I have an electrician coming in the next week to quote on installation of a āgensetā input to my power box to accommodate the Atto3 VTL and I would very much appreciate your feedback as follows:
- The wiring diagram for the Latronics ACTS40 seems to indicate that the āprimaryā input should be the generator (in my case the BYD Atto 3 VTL) while the secondary input would be a battery connected inverter. In my situation I will have standard mains AC power and the BYD Attoā¦which should be āprimaryā and which āsecondaryā?
- My goal is to have the transfer switch feeding all my domestic power points and light circuits (itās a small house with efficient appliances). The induction stove and oven would remain permanently connected to the mains, but I will have a small iStore 180L heat pump water heater (430W compressor) and a solar AC/DC Aircon (with 3~400W AC input limiter) which I would like to also include on the transfer switch circuit. Do you see any issue with this both technically and legally?
- The Latronics ACTS40 model appears to be Automatic rather than Manual. Is there some reason to preference an Automatic Switch over a manual switch? The Atto 3 will only be connected when it is at home and not itself charging from mains at night (as one canāt connect the car to mains for charging at the same time as using VTL). Iām very new to this and just wondering why an Automatic switch is preferred?..and what to avoid with a Manual option?
I would very much appreciate your feedback as it does seem from the forum that not every installation of a transfer switch works well with the Atto 3 VTL and I want my electrician to quote and install a good solution.
Many thanks in advance
@Anthony, Great to hear you are using the V2L successfully. Iāve havenāt used Outback power equipment for a long time, but it seems to be very reliable.
For safety reasons, I believe all EVs with V2L have a āprotectedā AC supply. If trying to power any protected circuits (RCDs) or the main switchboard (with MEN link), then this will interfere and trip the V2L supply. I read you disconnected the earth from the V2L, which sounds very risky. Iām assuming your RCD protected circuits are all tested and operating safely?
Itās worth noting that Iām using the Victron Multiplus inverter which is able to overcome this issue since they automatically disconnect the internal MEN link when the supply is protected.
Yes, as per the electrical standard AS/NZS 3010 (in Australia and NZ), the Main Supply Neutral upstream of the MEN connection is NOT allowed to be switched. In your situation it sounds like you are trying to power the entire switchboard, not a sub board or individual circuits so this is not going to work.
The V2L supply is protected and will interfere with the MEN and trip if you try to power an entire switchboard directly. The best way to avoid this is to set up a sub-board with separated (isolated) circuits used for backup power from the V2L supply.
Note, my testing was conducted using an off-grid inverter with an internal (automatic) MEN control link.
Thanks Jason, as always, very helpful.
Cheers
Darren
From what I understand through my electrician is that the earth is not required from the V2L since the house has the earth connected to an earth rod. Every circuit in the house has the usual RCD while the supplies to both electrical cars has the RCD with DC protection.
As a stand-alone the V2L will have the earth. I was assured the house will look after itself. I trust he is right then.
Hi folks,
Im just wondering what happens if on connects the Latronics ACTS40 to the Atto3 VTL as primary and standard 240V mains as secondary source, but then accidentally overload the VTL? My understanding is that the ACTS40 will immeditaley auto switch to mains supply if the VTL feed becomes unstable or drops out but Im worrying about the possibility that one could set up some horrible vicious circle where the ACTS40 auto switches to mains due to the overload of VTL, then senses that the VTL has stabilised and switches back to VTL causing another overload/drop-out, etc., etc.! what would actually happen? Doe the VTL cut off completely and require a manual reset or is my concern above founded? I just donāt understand how to avoid this possibility.
Hello Svarky, Per my recent posts, I am having an electrician fit a generator input (automatic or manual TBC) to certain circuits on my powerbox soon. (powerpoints, lights and a 430W heat pump HWS, plus possibly a 600W AC unit??). I have normal mains power and a grid connected PV system The PV system will not be connected to the generator transfer switch and neither will stove/oven, etc. In most situations I believe the Atto 3 will power my lights and powerpoints easily but Im trying to envisage what could happen if one switched on a kettle as well briefly. Lets say that lights and other appliances were drawing 1600 W (because AC was on) at the time one switched on the kettleā¦we would suddenly have a load of around 3800W. I assume this would trip the car out somehow (and switch an automatic transfer switch across to mains if fitted)? How would one then reinstate the VTL supply after switching off the kettle? I assume the car doesnāt automatically reinstate itself? Or does it? My BYD rep doesnāt seem to know. Really appreciate your counsel
@chris1, from my experience, if the V2L is overloaded, it will trip off and automatically restart after a few seconds. However, this occurred using a microwave during startup (which is an inductive load), and the total load was only about 3000W. When this happened, no error or warning message was displayed, although I recall reading somewhere that someone had seen a warning or overload message.
The V2L system seems to handle basic resistive loads (toasters, kettles) very well, up to about 3500W. I wouldnāt stress too much about it, as it seems like the vehicle has robust overload protection. (A worst case could be that you blow the 15A V2L fuse in the vehicle)
Hi, thanks heaps for the response. The Latronics dealer also expressed concern about the possibility that one could set up some horrible vicious circle where the ACTS40 auto switches to mains due to the overload of VTL, then senses that the VTL has stabilised/reset and switches back to VTL causing another overload/drop-out, repeating again and again, etcā¦ Ill probably install a manual transfer switch anyway, though the auto option does sound attractive if this concern about overload ping pong wasnāt there. Its strange that BYD dont provide much information at all in the manual about the potential for overload and what happens. They provide a 4 station power board so whats stopping folk plugging in a kettle and an electric frying pan and overloading?..there really should be some explanation as to what would happen and how it is remedied. Thanks again
In NZ the V2L adaptor is limited to 2kW. So the multiboard will trip well b4 car. Depends what your Au adaptor is limited to, but presumably 2.4kW/10 amps max. Probably BYD, Kia etc expect folks to be happy running a couple of appliances on a camping trip, which will be a novelty 98% of owners will try once or twice and then infrequently . The whole V2H will probably be a mainstream feature in the wider ev market much further down the track, and thereāll be a premium attached.
The adaptor now shipping in Oz is exactly the same as the NZ one, I think.
Hi, thanks for this. BYD gave me a spec sheet on the new adapter. It says 2400W āmaximum powerā, but also says the Overload Protection on the adapter is set to disconnect after 15 seconds at 20 Amp and 4 secs at 30 Amp (both at 25 deg). BYD themselves responded that the car is OK for 3.3kW max (I assume this isnāt continuous). At 55 deg C it will cut off after 9 secs at 20 Amp
Hi, Iām wondering if you can help me please. I have an off grid Victron with cerbo gx controller. I plugged my BYD atto 3 in using the AC1-in with the cord we use for the generator (caravan plug to 15A 3 prong, works fine with generator). It tripped the board. Input current is limited to 8.5A so shouldnāt be an issue. From a few forums Iāve read it could be to do with the Victron Multiplus inverter it liking the protected supply but you mention the inverter should automatically disconnect the internal MEN link when the supply is protected .
- Iām thinking of trying the direct wire option you have: have you been using this regularly without issue? (Iāll get my electrician to wire a 15A cord and caravan plug on in place of the board)
- can you please share your Victron settings including in VEConfig if possible? Iām thinking maybe the protected supply automation is a setting I need to enable? I also read there was an internal earth setting that could be disabled for protected supplies but would be interested to know your settings please
Thank you
Lauren