Hmmm, in that case I would not omit the diode. It’s clearly there for a reason. Definitely leave it in place. The last thing you want is for it to result in internal damage or faults.
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Ok, diode stays, then.
To fill all the gaps, do you think it’s better to use a 2kΩ or a 2,7kΩ resistor;
We know it works using a 2kΩ resistor, but it would be interesting to test the 2.7kΩ (if you have the time) to determine if it is able to function correctly and maybe even supply additional current using a different resistor?
check if there’s an ON/OFF switch or indicator light
Hello there!
Based on the discussions here and in a portuguese (BR) forum, I decided to make a V2L adapter based on the schematic of the official BYD adapter posted here.
I couldn’t find the exact 2K7 1/2W 3% resistor indicated, so I ended up buying a 2K7 1W 5%. And… it worked fine!
I tried on my BYD atto 3 with 2k & 2.7k but it doen’t work. No Power I measure with multimeter.
should I need to enable something from menu infotainement ?
did you solve the issue ?
Hi, yes, it was not enabled in the car’s computer. After I visit the service, and it is enabled, it is working with the 2.7K resistor
Thanks Peter so I will visit my car service
Coming back to this after a long time, but I just realised that the photo of that adaptor seems to show CP connected to earth, whereas the original adaptor and the circuit of the latest official one don’t show PP (edit: I mean CP) connected to anything. Might the diode have something to do with that?
@ShaneS , not sure which photo you are referring to, but the original adapter does have the PP connected to earth…
Sorry, I got my wires crossed in that post, literally. In the original adaptor, CP is not connected to anything, but in the photo of the third-party adaptor, CP appears to be connected to PE along with PP (via resistor and diode). I was wondering if that might be why a diode is used – to stop any flow CP-to-PP.